How NZ is embracing the fluidity of style: BRATTY COSGROVE 👄

Bad wardrobes result from sensible societies and we often see rigidness siding with uniformity (Nanny McPhee). Boring clothing cannot be blamed on the individual, it stems from a long line of cruelty and suppression. Clothing has always been political and contested. In the Elizabethan era, the sumptuary laws were codified to ensure people stayed in their lanes: the lower class wore browns, greys, and beige linens, while the noble/upper class wore luscious silks in deep purples, burgundies and navy blue. It was clear by clothing who were down bad in the trenches, and others, hand-fed grapes on piles of silk. 

As a labouring country, 1950s New Zealand saw an insurgence of style post-Great Depression. The country's prosperity dripped in Bruce Papas gowns and later on; Paris taffeta by El-Jay.  Fashion presented itself advertently. While it's obvious to comment only on women's fashion, the men were just as attentive to their DRIP. In the 20th century, the suit dominated workplaces (a classic). Blue-collar and white-collar men were pretty distinguishable: labourers in collarless/open-neck tops, woolen trousers and heavy boots (the modern-day red band and a ciggie combo). 

SO, that's where fashion started (in a snippet). Now, we're waist-deep in a cultural and socioeconomic shift. New Zealanders are spending again, traveling again, thrift-shopping like there's no tomorrow, and making STATEMENTS on the street. We're also moving away from gender-affirming clothing and wearing whatever (boxers with oversized shirts, mini skirts and cargos, low-waist jeans, baggy jeans, dad's old jumper, you NAME IT). People are customizing items and repurposing clothing to suit their style (from whichever section in the store). New Zealand is taking a leaflet out of the Americas and Europe, and strapping it down with a gold buckle. Take a look at one of the coolest fashion moguls:

BRATTY (BRITTANY) COSGROVE 

You'll know her 90s spirit, van-life escapades, and hilarious candor from her TikTok @brattycosgrove. Brittany is an OG thrifter who hosts pop-up shops of pre-loved clothing. If there's one thing we need more of, it's people like Brittany with a zest for life—someone who shares her lived-in experience and looks rockin doing it. I asked her some Q's so you don't have to!

What does your style say about you?

B: I think my sense of style shows people that yes I am mentally ill, but in a way where I should be handled like a creative genius or I'll cry.

What are your thoughts on what New Zealanders are currently wearing?

B: The one thing I love about NZ fashion is that there are so many different climates which leads to people wearing beachwear to gorp core (ski/camping gear as streetwear), farm wear, to ski gear and cold weather gear. I think the main things that tie NZ together is that we hold our garments to a very high standard. We love a natural eco-friendly fibre, and we LOVE second-hand and vintage. NZ has a unique sense of style that is so underrated because we have to get creative, overnight shopping from Amazon? Who is she? And buying from Shein? Blasphemous! So we're left with a smaller range of first-hand clothes and whatever is second-hand, whether that be curated vintage or op shop finds. These items culminate in 'unique community microtrends' which in Taranaki is a 1995 Swandri, a 2004 Coach shoulder bag in Wellington, and in Auckland; whatever Kow Tow has just come out with. I think New Zealanders at our core, have taste. We just don't always have access to as many styles, or we're too afraid to branch out because we all suffer from 'crippling tall poppy syndrome'. I truly believe NZ has the potential to be a huge fashion player if given the funding. 

You've pioneered an entirely new way of wearing pre-loved clothing and you seem to have the BEST of it. How did you get into collecting and hosting pop-up shops?

B: I have a self-diagnosed shopping addiction: op shops, thrifting, second-hand etc and I've been in the game since back in the day, vintage was considered smelly. I can't escape it and I’m obsessed—like give me the chance and I'll shop until I pass out from dehydration because I'm in a frenzy! The logical next step was to 'curate-to-sell' because hey, do what you're good at; do what you love. I love shopping and playing dress-ups, fashion photography and content creating and with a transient lifestyle, pop-up shops just seemed like a good fit. So in a way I'm just doing all the things I love. It all fell together into what I do now. 

THANK YOU BRATTY COSGROVE. For more on Brittany (her style/pop-up shops/overseas adventures)  follow her on TikTok & Instagram.